Understanding SPF and Choosing the Right Sunscreen

To help you stay sun safe this season, Optum Care Washington dermatologist, Deva Wells, MD shares her easy, practical tips for understanding SPF and choosing the best sunscreen for your skin.

What SPF really means

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It tells you how much sun exposure it takes to burn sunscreen-covered skin. The higher the SPF, the more sun exposure is required. Some people may think the SPF number relates to the time duration of sun exposure, but it’s really about the solar energy or strength, which differs significantly by time of day. For example, SPF 30 might protect your skin well during a gentle early morning walk, but that same SPF may not be enough at 1 p.m. on a sunny summer day.

Dermatologists usually recommend SPF 30 or higher and aim for SPF 50 when possible.

Choosing the right sunscreen ingredients

Mineral (physical) sunscreens

When selecting a sunscreen to use when you’re physically active or anticipate sweating, look for a mineral sunscreen or physical blocker with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide listed as active ingredients.

If you have melasma, choose a tinted sunscreen with iron oxides listed under the inactive ingredients. Iron oxides help protect against visible light, which can worsen melasma.

Chemical sunscreens

These often include avobenzone or oxybenzone. They’re common and effective, but some people have allergies to these ingredients that can be made even worse with sun exposure—a bad deal for someone who was only trying to protect their skin.

This helps explain the rise of Korean sunscreens, which have advanced chemical filters that are extremely effective and have a lower risk of causing allergies and irritation.

How much sunscreen to use

Cover all sun exposed areas, especially “hot spots” like the nose, temples, and ears.

Use lip balm with SPF 15 or higher. Timing of re-application will depend on the activities at hand, but in general every 2 hours is recommended when outside.

Understanding labels

Sunscreens with the label of “facial” can imply a smoother texture that rubs in well. The “sport” and “active” labels oftentimes refer to mineral or physical blocking sunscreens that tend to resist sweat better. It’s perfectly fine to use facial sunscreen on the body or vice versa.

Finding a sunscreen you actually like

“Higher-end” sunscreens may feel lighter or less greasy, but like moisturizers, they’re highly personal. What feels “good” or luxurious on the skin to one person may be unappetizing to another. The “best” sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use. That typically means a combination of cost-effectiveness, easy to access and apply, and effective at preventing sunburns. Everyone’s preferences are different, so a little trial and error is normal!

Why spray sunscreens aren’t recommended

Spray sunscreens often provide poor or uneven coverage, so they’re more likely to leave gaps that lead to sunburn. Spray sunscreens are also the main products that Consumer Reports found with sunscreen ingredients in the bloodstream, although it’s not clear what that means for your health. Experts think this happens because the tiny spray particles can be absorbed into the skin more easily. High-quality cream-based sunscreens, on the other hand, provide excellent coverage and have mostly not been found to be absorbed into the bloodstream.

One thing I wish everyone knew

There is a sunscreen out there that feels good, works well, and doesn’t cost a fortune. It may take a little research and trying different sunscreens, but it’s worth finding the one that fits your skin and your lifestyle.

Enjoy the sun—safely

Enjoying the outdoors and basking in sunshine can be one of life’s greatest pleasures. Sun protection doesn’t have to mean sun avoidance. I encourage my patients to lead active, healthy lives that include fun in the sun as they desire.

Smart sun care helps you stay healthy so you can enjoy every sunny day feeling confident, protected, and ready for fun. If you’d like help understanding your skin’s needs, talk with your care team at Optum Care Washington, we’re here to help you keep your skin happy and healthy.